Valent

The last few weeks have been rather hectic. Following our departure from St Vaast we took a direct line to Ouistreham. This was the obvious choice as it is one of the few ports in the Baie de Seine offering access at all tides (albeit on the outside waiting pontoon). On our enjoyable sail across from St Vaast we were called up by an off shore support boat that requested we alter course and give a wider berth to the new off shore wind farm being constructed 15nm off the coast of Courselles sur Mer. This is a major new off shore wind facility that will consist of 64 wind turbines delivering 480MW of energy. Construction started in July 2024 after many years in the pipeline. The wind farm is expected to be operational by the end of 2025. It took our English brains a couple of minutes to understand that the drilling platform name was exactly as we were hearing it – Vol au Vent – a good pun given its appearance in the sea.

The Vol – au -Vent and the entry to Ouistreham showing the waiting pontoon in the foreground and a Portsmouth ferry departing in the background.

Arriving at Ouistreham in the evening we found the waiting pontoon full. We were about an hour before the first entry lock of the evening. Due to our size rafting up was not an option so we turned around and exited the channel, ate some dinner and waited for the lock to open. We correctly surmised that most of the boats were waiting for the lock and would enter the main river canal system leading to the marina and a few miles further up to Caen. Once tied up a quick set of tidal calculations showed that we would still have enough depth at low water and we settled back for the night. Prudence had dictated that it was not a good idea to enter a strange marina as night fell with no idea if a large enough berth was available for Valent. Next morning we wandered up to the marina, found it very welcoming and peaceful, and even better a very long visitors pontoon nearly empty. Decision made, straight back to the boat, lines cast off and straight into the first lock of the day, and an hour later we were tied up in the very peaceful and picturesque marina of Ouistreham.

The marina at Ouistreham. The marina is to the left as you exit the lock. It’s quiet with a lovely small cafe by the visitor pontoons. The area to the East of the marina is a nature reserve.

As well as being a major cross channel ferry port with 2-3 ferries a day from Portsmouth, Ouistreham is a significant World War 2 (WW2) site. Sword Beach the most Easterly of the 5 landing beaches ran from Ouistreham in the East to Lion sur Mer in the West. After visiting Sword Beach and many of the evocative memorials, including the Kieffer Memorial we moved on to the Grand Bunker. This is a remnant from the Atlantic Wall, the German defensive wall against landings from the Atlantic. The bunker was the last German occupied building in Ouistreham and the story of its capture is an amusing tale from another era. Le Grand Bunker is now a museum over 5 floors and tells the story of both D-Day and life in the bunker.

However, the most fascinating D-Day history at Ouistreham is a few miles up the canal at the villages of Bénouville and Ranville. These 2 villages had bridges across both the river and canal that provided access to Caen and the French interior. The first action of D-Day actually occurred during the dark hours of 5 June 1944 and involved the most incredible feat of glider flying. 6 Horsa gliders departed England and landed within 10 metres of the 2 bridges. Within minutes both bridges had been captured with minimal loss of life. This action was critical to the success of the whole D-Day mission as it prevented the Germans from reinforcing their defences, specifically isolating the 21st Panzer Division. The Paras followed up the glider assault and by the time that the D-Day landings commenced this small area of France was already under Allied control. Subsequently the bridges at these 2 villages have been renamed Pegasus and Horsa. The Pegasus war memorial and museum is a fascinating place with short films and tours in both French and English. If you are travelling this way through France it is well worth a detour and visit.

The original Pegasus Bridge. The girls are at the landing site of the first glider with the new (replica) Pegasus Bridge in the background.

Following our immersion in WW2 history, a visit to the French market, Fish Market and more importantly Normandie Wines (yes they have a shop in Ouistreham as well as Cherbourg), it was time to return to the UK and reality. We set out for Haslar and had a very fast crossing for Valent. With half the main and half the genoa out we were still making good 8kts. By the time we got to Bembridge we popped the sails away and engine on to slow us down (and give more control around the shipping and anchored vessels). We had planned to arrive mid morning in daylight, but at 04:00 in the dark we did our entry to Haslar and found our berth. It was a little tricky due to the stiff breeze blowing us off the berth, the dark and the tide running through the marina. Once tied up we grabbed a few hours of sleep and then started the process of moving back to a shore based life.

In the few days before we could move back into our house we bought cars, packed bags and discovered that we needed some warmer clothing. On 15 August we moved back into our house in Woking, where we are still unpacking the boxes. In our defence we did decide to do some redecoration and paint takes time to dry. Also the last 2 weeks have been full of getting the girls ready for school. Uniforms had to be sourced and labelled. New routines needed to be worked out. Sophie needed a rail pass. Lucy needed a laptop. Their feet decided to grow. In between all this the contents of Valent needed to be removed and she needed to be moved from Haslar over to Ocean Quay in Southampton. Once again Valent is in the hands of Andy Willett where she will have a little bit of work done to keep her ready and available for her next adventure.

Back home and we are well on the way to being settled back in. The neighbours very kindly had a small get together to welcome us back – thank you Mandy for organising and hosting. We are feeling very lucky to have had such an amazing adventure, full of new experiences and discoveries, and to have spent precious time together as a family visiting so many interesting countries. Valent is now on the market, and hopefully will allow her new owners to fulfil their dreams and create another set of wonderful memories.

As the weather got sunnier we departed the Channel Islands and did the short hop round to Cherbourg. Cherbourg is a much maligned place. It has a vibrant Saturday market, good facilities and a rich history (even if it is centred on Umbrellas). We did plenty of geocaching, bring up our 1000th find at the Le Redoutable Submarine. We found that the Dutch sailing vessels had also decided to move from Alderney to Cherbourg.

From Cherbourg we went for another short hop around the corner of the Cherbourg Peninsular, past Barfleur and into St Vaast. St Vaast is a charming French fishing port. It was voted the Best Village in France in 2019 by the French. Whilst we were there we were treated to an entirely different set of attractions to those that won it the award. We had the ‘pleasure’ of a large funfair covering the whole marina front next to Valent, and a fantastic firework display on the Sunday night.

Valent can only enter St Vaast around 1 hour either side of high water. The lock gates close when the depth falls to 2.3M in the marina, to keep the water at that level (though it seemed more like 2.1M). Our draft is 2.3M, so this felt as though we were touching the bottom.

St Vaast entry – high water vs low water. Once the height of tide is around 2.3M the lock gates shut.

St Vaast is one of the ports that claim William The Conqueror set sail from. It is also where the British Navy burnt 12 French ships of the line back in 1692. The action is known as the Battle of Barfleur and was between the French and an Anglo-Dutch fleet. This was all part of the French plan to invade England and restore James II to the English throne thus forcing England to return to the Catholic Church. In more modern times St Vaast is one of the largest production areas of oysters and mussels. The town also has the Chapelle des Marins, a small chapel dedicated to the memories of those lost at sea from the village of St Vaast. It is a pertinent reminder of how dangerous the sea can be. Most of the lives were lost by local fishermen, often several people from the same family. St Vaast also celebrates its association with the sea and our visit coincided with a regatta for old wooden gaff boats that provided an excuse for the fireworks and funfair.

One other major attraction of St Vaast (apart from great restaurants specialising in local produce) is Monsieur Gosselin. This masquerades as an extensive deli, but really it is the most amazing wine merchant. Cellar after cellar of different wines, dusty locked rooms with the ‘special wines’ and other side rooms specialising in whisky. The scent of old wood is mixed with coffee (they have a coffee grinding business), faint aromas of wine and that friendly musty smell that cellars often have. On our return from town we found an area taped off and a crowd stood around. It turned out to be a bee keeper removing a swarm of bees that had congregated on the bonnet of a car parked by the marina office.

Whilst in St Vaast (an extended stay to ensure the girls got to enjoy the funfair and fireworks) we took the opportunity to visit Tatihou Island, a small island just off St Vaast. Around low water you can walk there across the oyster beds, but the island is mainly visited via a ‘duck’ boat which can also drive on land. On our trip out we went in boat mode, and for our return we were in bus mode. The island has records of human settlements dating back many thousands of years but is now notable for its 17th century defensive fort and as a nature reserve. No dogs are allowed on the island and areas to the east are closed to preserve the fragile ecosystem. A big bonus on Tatihou was coming across an amazing area of blackberries – ripe, juicy and just asking to be picked. Luckily we had a large shopping bag with us, and despite Sophie’s prodigious blackberry appetite, we did manage to fill the bag and now have a delicious feast in the freezer awaiting conversion into a crumble.

It was then back to St Vaast where the funfair was in full swing. Yes it was loud, yes it was bright, but it was all good fun and the girls loved it. The fireworks on the Sunday night were very impressive too and from our deck we had a front row seat. We were so close to the action that we had to persuade the security guard to let us into the cordoned off area to get back onto the boat.

Having had our fill of St Vaast we decided to head to Ouistreham where we could enter at any state of tide and hopefully immerse ourselves in a bit of D-Day history.

After leaving Fowey, (where we enjoyed an excellent Bouillabaisse at Sam’s) it was time to move round the corner to Falmouth. The weather was mixed in Falmouth though we did come across a fun Saturday market at the quayside.

Next we moved over to the Helford river. As the RNSA buoy was not available we moved further up the river and anchored in a deepwater spot almost adjacent with Frenchmen’s Creek. As the rain lashed down and the wind howled down the Helford we were glad to be reliant on our anchor and tackle. We could let out more chain and had plenty of swinging room without worrying about the strength of the buoy and its associated anchor or the proximity to other vessels.

Whilst in the Helford, Suzy’s friends, Shannon and Suzanne from Canada came to visit us. They were enjoying a UK holiday and put Cornwall on their itinerary to meet up with us. Unfortunately the weather had not got the memo and they had a character-building trip from shore to Valent in the dinghy. A change of clothes was required!!

It became apparent that we were not going to get a decent break in the weather to enable us to go across to The Scilly Isles. Even if we got there the weather was looking extremely mixed. So we made the decision to head for the place reputed to be the sunniest in the UK – Jersey. The winds were very favourable to sail across and we had an uneventful overnight trip. The marina at Jersey was a bit full (lots of boats not leaving due to the weather), but they did find us a spot on the outside where they normally put the big boats. It meant a longer walk, but at least we were not constrained by the tide. One highlight of our time in Jersey was a visit to the Maritime Museum.

We delayed our departure from Jersey by a few days primarily as the weather forecast was looking unpleasant. Also the island was holding a beach party and some Bastille day celebrations that we thought might be fun to go to. But the real reason for our delay was so that we could offer King Charles and Queen Camilla an alternative mode of transport between Jersey and Guernsey. Who wants a deluxe royal helicopter when you can have a spacious trip across on Valent, complete with a fully stocked bar and hand pump flushing toilets. Unfortunately the lemon cake didn’t turn out quite right so we felt unable to offer them the alternative experience. On the day of the Royal visit to Jersey it became quickly apparent that the rain would be torrential – so we made the easy decision to take the morning tide and go to Guernsey to enjoy the royal visit there instead. The weather turned out much better (i.e. dry and sunny), and the local population fully embraced the royal visit. A significant number of boats, both in the marina and on the outside berths (where we were), dressed ship for the occasion. This basically means putting up all your flags in a special order. With the sun shining it all looked very joyful. The King and Queen even came over to the harbour wall to look at us ogling at them and gave us a very cheery wave.

Following a few more days of Guernsey we departed to Sark. Before we left Guernsey we wished to fill up with fuel, and just as we departed a great big motor cruiser went to the fuel berth. The Harbour Master reckoned he would be a couple of hours filling up, (yes taking on several thousand litres of fuel does require a lot of time), so he advised us to go round the corner to the fuel dock in Queen Elizabeth Marina. We were assured there was plenty of space. I have never been into this marina before. Put politely it is tight around the fuel berth with a great big concrete buttress for company, and that is after you have got over a sill that seemed to have less water over it than expected. The reward for that stress was no queue and even cheaper diesel.

Yes, we did have a sunny day on Guernsey and did a lovely walk above the harbour. We were able to see all the Channel Islands and Sophie did a very good job of trying to capture it in this panoramic picture.

So over to Sark. One of the highlights for us from last year, and this time we were going to time our visit for the annual Sheep Racing. This is the big event on Sark. Yet again the weather had not got the memo, but despite the showers the crowds turned up, the racing was unpredictable and there was even a tote betting table. No-one got rich. Another highlight for us at Sark was we caught plenty of fish whilst at anchor in Derrible Bay. When the weather was not blowing and raining hard I managed to get lots of mackerel, a bream and a small red mullet. We were able to return the mullet alive but enjoyed eating the rest. We also managed a visit to the dairy, watched the milking, chatted with the farmer and bought plenty of lovely rich creamy milk.

The wind changed direction after the sheep racing and the anchorage at Sark became ‘uncomfortable’ so it was time for Alderney. We had not been able to visit Alderney last year so were keen to return. Having been assured that the large boat moorings were available we made all haste to Alderney on a wet, grey and blustery day. Having successfully picked up the buoy we watched as large boat after large boat came in and tried to find shelter in Braye Harbour. It was not nice out there and visibility was down to a few hundred metres. We also had the sight of 4 large Dutch classic sailing vessels all anchored in the harbour. Almost a throwback to the bygone ages of sail.

We did get a couple of decent days, and took full advantage of the best day to walk the 10 mile circuit around Alderney. We visited numerous forts, most built in the Victorian era, but some dated back to Roman times and all had been changed by the Germans in World War 2. Alderney was occupied by the Germans during WW2 and nearly all the local population was evacuated or removed. Alderney had significant German fortifications, a concentration camp and evidence has been found of an execution wall where death by firing squad took place. It was long day but very interesting and enjoyable. We finished just before the rain came back and enjoyed well earnt fish & chips in the Braye Chippy. If you are ever on Alderney and need a quick meal then the Braye Chippy is thoroughly recommended. The wind was now starting to come round from the West towards the East and Braye Harbour is not pleasant in these conditions. It was time to move on and Cherbourg was our next destination.

The girls at the route marker on the round Alderney walk. This marker is at the old entrance to the concentration camp. We also waited for the tide to go out to walk across the causeway to Fort Clonque.

Together again and ready to enjoy 2 months cruising the local grounds and enjoying an English Summer. South coast, sunshine, what was there n0t to enjoy? Short answer, Jupiter & Zeus had not got the memo (or maybe we had used up their largesse with the kind weather for our Atlantic crossings). Sunshine has been in short supply so far and the temperature has been persistently below 20 degrees C. As for rain, we have seen plenty.

After a quick chat the girls said that they would like to revisit Helford and the Isles of Scilly. Quick decision, let’s set off, go overnight and get the distance in. Highlight of that first night at sea, on nearly the longest day of the year was the most amazing sunset. Possibly the best I have ever seen. The shot below has no filters, adjustments or editing. It is exactly as it was.

Next morning found us motoring in the vicinity of Plymouth, with warships of many nationalities visual and on the radio. The wind had dropped, the day was pleasant and we decided to give the harbour master on the Yealm a quick call. Our luck was in, they had a single mooring that could accommodate us, and yes it would be free later that morning. Without further ado we set course for the Yealm and after a very careful entrance over the bar picked up our reserved buoy. The Yealm is truly beautiful. Lovely pubs and great walks. In the evening there was local yacht racing in Devon Yawls. They just about managed to complete the race before the wind went and they needed to be towed home. We spent an enjoyable 3 nights in the Yealm before leaving for Plymouth.

We were booked into the Queen Anne’s Battery Marina to allow us to leave Valent and go to the wedding of my god daughter (Kat & Dan). Amazingly the sun shone, the weather was almost warm and a thoroughly enjoyable wedding was enjoyed by all.

A quick detour to Lyme Regis (by car) on the way back from the wedding allowed for some fossil hunting and HUGE ice creams.

Back to Plymouth and then we had a few days to fill before we were due in to Falmouth. A quick call and Fowey was our destination. Another lovely place, 1 day of beautiful weather followed by torrential rain.

Following Fowey, Falmouth and the Helford would be our next two stops. But that is all for Part 2.

After a couple of days recovering in Falmouth it was time to depart. Destination was the Solent via St Peter Port and Cherbourg. Whilst this may seem to be a strange route there was method to the madness.

Firstly, Noah, one of the crew, had booked his Yachtmaster exam for the end of June. In order to complete his qualification he was required to skipper 2 passages of over 60 nm. This would be achieved by doing Falmouth to St Peter Port and Cherbourg to Haslar. Secondly, we needed around 500 litres of diesel, and diesel is around £1/ltr cheaper in St Peter Port than Falmouth – so a saving of £500 – that is a lot of wine and cheese.

When we first thought about going to St Peter Port the weather forecast was for North East/East winds on the Thursday when we would return to the mainland. Therefore it made sense to go to Cherbourg to improve the wind angle. This also gave us the opportunity to stock up on wine and cheese. As it was, the wind by the end of the week was totally different to the forecast – it became South West/West and F5/6 building up to quite serious winds for this Saturday’s Round The Island race (RTI) in which both Alex and Noah intended to participate.

We were required to depart Falmouth around lunchtime on Monday to make space for a 68M superyacht that was due in around 13:00. Since we did not wish to depart Falmouth until around 17:00 for our passage to Guernsey we went and picked up a buoy for a few hours in the Helford River. At the appropriate hour, we slipped, exited the river, popped the sails up and had a cracking sail all the way to Guernsey, averaging around 8kts. We arrived in Guernsey a bit earlier than planned, but the fuel dock had opened, the tide was high enough and the vessel filling had just finished. So a quick refuel, and then we took a shore pontoon and were all tied up and finished by 09:30. Alex led us ashore in the evening to a family favourite Chinese restaurant.

Next morning we departed at the perfect time to catch the tides and the Alderney race round to Cherbourg. Again everything worked out well, we got some good sailing in and tied up in the early afternoon outside the marina office. A very busy few hours then followed. First a walk to the border police to get our entry formalities completed. After that it was a visit to Normandie Wines and a restock of Valent’s wine cellar. A route back into town allowed the boys to get a coffee & pastry before the visit to the fromagerie. An extensive (or did I mean excessive) amount of cheese was purchased. A memorable line from Monsieur Fromage was when Alex requested an unpasteurised Camembert only to be told in no uncertain terms, “We do not do pasteurised cheese here”. Unfortunately my writing does not due justice to the pithy put down delivered in gallic tones with a disdainful look.

Thursday was an early departure on a glorious morning in Cherbourg. The day got progressively greyer and damper as we approached the Isle of Wight. We crossed with a mixture of motoring early on, motor sailing in the middle and by the end we were romping along in a strong SW breeze. Haslar awaited and it was great to tie up again in the marina we had left 13 months ago. Noah departed to catch a train to stay with his Aunt and to join their boat for the RTI. Valent was pleased to host Alex’s parents for dinner that night as they were en-route to East Cowes in preparation for the RTI. Once fed and Alex (and his cheese) duly collected they departed to the sound of strengthening winds.

Glorious sunrise in Cherbourg and a grey blustery Isle of Wight

Saturday proved to be one of the windiest RTI races. Alex’s parents own a HR34 called Fulmar – and being polite she likes a breeze to get going – well they certainly had one. 939 boats entered the RTI, 1/3 choose not to start and over 70% of those who started retired. One of the boats that did not leave the marina was the boat Noah was due to be on. So, following a month of bonding on Valent, Noah joined Alex on Fulmar. The wind was a steady F9 around the Needles/St Catherine’s and gusting to 54kts. The sea state was very rough and waves of 6-9M reported. Only 154 boats finished, and Fulmar was one of those with a very creditable 73rd place and an outstanding achievement to finish with a small boat in those conditions.

Suzy and the girls re-joined Valent on the Friday evening and we are now settling back into family life aboard. We intend to depart Haslar on Monday (tomorrow) and head back over to Cornwall. We feel we could have spent more time in the Scilly Isles a couple of years ago, so the aim is to go back and enjoy those beautiful islands. Oh, and the beard has now been removed.