The Last Post – (well maybe)

The last few weeks have been rather hectic. Following our departure from St Vaast we took a direct line to Ouistreham. This was the obvious choice as it is one of the few ports in the Baie de Seine offering access at all tides (albeit on the outside waiting pontoon). On our enjoyable sail across from St Vaast we were called up by an off shore support boat that requested we alter course and give a wider berth to the new off shore wind farm being constructed 15nm off the coast of Courselles sur Mer. This is a major new off shore wind facility that will consist of 64 wind turbines delivering 480MW of energy. Construction started in July 2024 after many years in the pipeline. The wind farm is expected to be operational by the end of 2025. It took our English brains a couple of minutes to understand that the drilling platform name was exactly as we were hearing it – Vol au Vent – a good pun given its appearance in the sea.

The Vol – au -Vent and the entry to Ouistreham showing the waiting pontoon in the foreground and a Portsmouth ferry departing in the background.

Arriving at Ouistreham in the evening we found the waiting pontoon full. We were about an hour before the first entry lock of the evening. Due to our size rafting up was not an option so we turned around and exited the channel, ate some dinner and waited for the lock to open. We correctly surmised that most of the boats were waiting for the lock and would enter the main river canal system leading to the marina and a few miles further up to Caen. Once tied up a quick set of tidal calculations showed that we would still have enough depth at low water and we settled back for the night. Prudence had dictated that it was not a good idea to enter a strange marina as night fell with no idea if a large enough berth was available for Valent. Next morning we wandered up to the marina, found it very welcoming and peaceful, and even better a very long visitors pontoon nearly empty. Decision made, straight back to the boat, lines cast off and straight into the first lock of the day, and an hour later we were tied up in the very peaceful and picturesque marina of Ouistreham.

The marina at Ouistreham. The marina is to the left as you exit the lock. It’s quiet with a lovely small cafe by the visitor pontoons. The area to the East of the marina is a nature reserve.

As well as being a major cross channel ferry port with 2-3 ferries a day from Portsmouth, Ouistreham is a significant World War 2 (WW2) site. Sword Beach the most Easterly of the 5 landing beaches ran from Ouistreham in the East to Lion sur Mer in the West. After visiting Sword Beach and many of the evocative memorials, including the Kieffer Memorial we moved on to the Grand Bunker. This is a remnant from the Atlantic Wall, the German defensive wall against landings from the Atlantic. The bunker was the last German occupied building in Ouistreham and the story of its capture is an amusing tale from another era. Le Grand Bunker is now a museum over 5 floors and tells the story of both D-Day and life in the bunker.

However, the most fascinating D-Day history at Ouistreham is a few miles up the canal at the villages of Bénouville and Ranville. These 2 villages had bridges across both the river and canal that provided access to Caen and the French interior. The first action of D-Day actually occurred during the dark hours of 5 June 1944 and involved the most incredible feat of glider flying. 6 Horsa gliders departed England and landed within 10 metres of the 2 bridges. Within minutes both bridges had been captured with minimal loss of life. This action was critical to the success of the whole D-Day mission as it prevented the Germans from reinforcing their defences, specifically isolating the 21st Panzer Division. The Paras followed up the glider assault and by the time that the D-Day landings commenced this small area of France was already under Allied control. Subsequently the bridges at these 2 villages have been renamed Pegasus and Horsa. The Pegasus war memorial and museum is a fascinating place with short films and tours in both French and English. If you are travelling this way through France it is well worth a detour and visit.

The original Pegasus Bridge. The girls are at the landing site of the first glider with the new (replica) Pegasus Bridge in the background.

Following our immersion in WW2 history, a visit to the French market, Fish Market and more importantly Normandie Wines (yes they have a shop in Ouistreham as well as Cherbourg), it was time to return to the UK and reality. We set out for Haslar and had a very fast crossing for Valent. With half the main and half the genoa out we were still making good 8kts. By the time we got to Bembridge we popped the sails away and engine on to slow us down (and give more control around the shipping and anchored vessels). We had planned to arrive mid morning in daylight, but at 04:00 in the dark we did our entry to Haslar and found our berth. It was a little tricky due to the stiff breeze blowing us off the berth, the dark and the tide running through the marina. Once tied up we grabbed a few hours of sleep and then started the process of moving back to a shore based life.

In the few days before we could move back into our house we bought cars, packed bags and discovered that we needed some warmer clothing. On 15 August we moved back into our house in Woking, where we are still unpacking the boxes. In our defence we did decide to do some redecoration and paint takes time to dry. Also the last 2 weeks have been full of getting the girls ready for school. Uniforms had to be sourced and labelled. New routines needed to be worked out. Sophie needed a rail pass. Lucy needed a laptop. Their feet decided to grow. In between all this the contents of Valent needed to be removed and she needed to be moved from Haslar over to Ocean Quay in Southampton. Once again Valent is in the hands of Andy Willett where she will have a little bit of work done to keep her ready and available for her next adventure.

Back home and we are well on the way to being settled back in. The neighbours very kindly had a small get together to welcome us back – thank you Mandy for organising and hosting. We are feeling very lucky to have had such an amazing adventure, full of new experiences and discoveries, and to have spent precious time together as a family visiting so many interesting countries. Valent is now on the market, and hopefully will allow her new owners to fulfil their dreams and create another set of wonderful memories.